Créme de l. a. créme! County Sligo is the brand new culinary capital of Eire’s Northwest – and deservedly so, writes Domhnall O’Donoghue.
Firstly printed within the July / August 2021 factor of our sister newsletter, Eire of the Welcomes.
County Sligo – one among Eire’s most lovely locations positioned alongside the Atlantic Ocean – is lately cooking up a hurricane. Now not content material with being the house of world-class seashores and Nobel-prize-winning poets, this unspoiled county is rising because the culinary capital of Eire’s Northwest.
This recognition is essentially because of the Sligo Meals Path, one of the crucial fastest-growing meals networks in Europe. It just lately celebrated its 5th birthday – an improbable milestone for a community-driven initiative.
The pandemic has surely been a difficult duration for the food and drink trade globally – and Eire was once no exception. Alternatively, over the last 16 months, contributors of the Sligo Meals Path have remained hooked up with food-lovers by way of embracing on-line tastings, demonstrations and different interactive occasions.
Now, with restrictions in the end easing around the Emerald Isle, Sligo is able to welcome foodies in particular person as soon as once more. Weekend markets also are scheduled – an improbable strategy to meet manufacturers and be informed extra concerning the native produce. In need of to just do that, my style buds and I undertaking to Sligo – a three-hour educate adventure from Dublin.
King of the fort
My first vacation spot is Markree Citadel – a powerful, Seventeenth-Century belongings nestled inside the verdant Collooney geographical region. When it was once built in 1663, the valuables was once a humble fortress guarding a ford at the Unshin river; lately, it is without doubt one of the nation’s greatest privately-owned castles – and hottest marriage ceremony venues.
Markree Citadel.
Nicholas Ryan, who, in conjunction with his spouse, Deirdre, manages the fort, presentations me across the belongings. Following my first step onto the dramatic, candle-lined staircase, I think like I’m disappearing right into a fairytale.
Initially of the nineteenth century, famed architect Francis Johnson – whose paintings comprises Dublin’s GPO – was once hired to increase, fortify, and magnify the fort. In 2015, after being got by way of the famend hotelier kinfolk, the Corscaddens, this Gothic masterpiece gained any other in depth refurbishment – the phenomenal craftsmanship of those efforts is clear in each flourish.
With roaring fires, stained glass home windows and an abundance of duration furniture, Markree Citadel transports you again in time whilst additionally managing to really feel contemporary and recent.
Becoming a member of us alongside the excursion of the grounds is Róisín – a gregarious three-year-old Irish wolfhound. Obviously enamored together with her domestic and keen to turn it off, my new, four-legged buddy’s welcoming persona completely mirrors the céad míle fáílte I additionally obtain from the fort’s outstanding body of workers.
For lunch, I bask in a tasty six-course, seasonal taster menu created by way of the deftly ingenious head chef, Lee Mastin, that incorporates tuna croquettes, lamb’s liver, scotch duck egg and tamarind glazed beef abdominal. Nicholas unearths that the kitchen assets maximum of its components in Sligo and neighboring counties. This freshness is clear in each mouthful.
“Markree Citadel is a superb position to paintings,” Nicholas says. “I really like seeing the reactions at the faces of our visitors – we need to give them that wow issue.”
Following my reviews right here lately, my host – ably supported by way of his bushy colleague, Róisín – has unquestionably accomplished that.
The arena is your oyster
“Consuming an oyster is like kissing the ocean at the lips.’ So stated the overdue French poet Leon Paul Fargue – an outline I quickly uncover to be splendidly exact.
The just lately introduced Sligo Oyster Revel in Farm Excursion is spearheaded by way of the bubbling and visionary entrepreneur Aisling Kelly – a industry and tourism graduate from Sligo IT. The hour-long excursion takes position at Coney Island Oyster Farm in Strandhill, a rustic mile outdoor Sligo the town.
Sligo Oyster Revel in Farm Excursion.
Aisling, whose husband, Glenn Hunter, is an oyster farmer, proudly unearths that Sligo is the house of the oyster, explaining that the Gaelic phrase for Sligo – ‘Sligeach’ – interprets as ‘abounding in shells’.
Seeing as oysters are ceaselessly related to high-end eating places, Aisling – who additionally owns WB Espresso Space within the the town – is made up our minds to make the delicacy out there to everybody.
“I need everybody to enjoy their magic,” Aisling mentions, as Glenn demonstrates the harvesting procedure, in conjunction with ‘shucking’, the time period given to opening the shells.
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As Aisling lists some great benefits of oysters – “they’re stuffed with zinc, iron, minerals and selenium” – I wonder on the surprising sea coast round me. Even if I wonder whether my love for the vista is the oysters speaking – in spite of everything, they’re recognized for being an aphrodisiac. Casanova, the infamous lothario, it sounds as if swore by way of them, devouring fifty an afternoon!
Without or with this unexpected arousal, I will be able to wholeheartedly counsel the Sligo Oyster Revel in, which includes a native seaweed mix from Dr Prannie Phatigan of Irish Seaweed Kitchen and craft beer from James Ward in Lough Gill Brewery.
* This newsletter was once at the beginning printed within the July / August 2021 factor of our sister newsletter, Eire of the Welcomes.
Connected
Later that day, I meet Anthony Grey, a central participant within the county’s ever-growing culinary scene. As soon as a qualified golfing participant, lately, the restauranteur is repeatedly teeing up alternatives to advertise native companies, providers and manufacturers.
Anthony Grey and Chef Joe McGlynn from Hooked, in Sligo.
“In Sligo, we’ve one of the best eating places in Eire,” he enthuses. “We offer a rugged, original enjoy. I think blessed having the ability to show off Sligo thru native meals.”
Along with being the previous president of the Eating place Affiliation of Eire, in addition to former chairman of the Sligo Meals Path, Anthony is the proud proprietor of a duo of award-winning eating places positioned alongside Rockwood Parade – a bustling stretch that he refers to as ‘the Temple Bar of Sligo’.
Eala Bhán, the Gaelic for white swan, is a high-end eatery, appreciated by way of Eire’s president, Michael D Higgins, and the overdue Nobel-prize-winning poet, Séamus Heaney. Alternatively, Hooked is an edgier, cooler possibility with an inner to make Instagrammers swoon.
In the case of opting for his providers for those two eating places, Anthony says that he’s satisfied to pay that little bit further to “strengthen native companies and providers, which, in flip, generates native jobs.”
A top-glass resort
My lodging for the night time is the Glasshouse Lodge which dramatically towers over the vigorous Garravogue River. With its distinctive glass design and colourful decor, this four-star status quo has been inundated with awards – for a excellent explanation why.
Glasshouse Lodge, Sligo.
The resort’s govt chef, Alan Fitzmaurice, hails from Castlerea, Co. Roscommon and credit his oldsters for his love of meals.
Talking of his mom, he says: “My recollections are of home-baked bread, hearty puddings and casseroles, slow-cooked to perfection within the Aga, in a position for hungry kids after college!”
Alan and his siblings fished, hunted and foraged with their father: “I consider dashing into the again kitchen someday and swinging the door close, handiest to be clocked at the head by way of a dangling pheasant!”
Eating out at Glasshouse Eating place, Sligo.
My meal right here this night is the steak, and prefer Alan and that boisterous pheasant, it’s a knock-out.
Candy as pie
The following morning, I consult with Candy Beat – the family-run, plant-based eco café and store positioned in Sligo the town. Overseen by way of Carolanne Rushe, this colourful eatery has gained a slew of prestigious awards whilst its recognition for ingenious and inventive dishes grows day-to-day.
Carolanne Rushe from Candy Beat.
Firstly from Dublin, Carolanne’s kinfolk moved to Sligo when she was once simply 8, brought on by way of her father’s process – a cameraman with our nationwide broadcaster, RTÉ. Residing in Strandhill along sandy seashores kick-started her life-long love of nature.
Candy Beat welcomes an eclectic combination of consumers keen to take a look at one thing new or experience a deal with. After I pattern a few of these treats – a choice of sourdough, and vegan doughnuts – I’m immediately gained over.
Carolanne says: “The café has been a revelation for lots of dedicated meat-eaters. Now not judgy or preachy – simply meals that’s excellent for you.”
Alternate of tempo
Due to Guinness, stout is ceaselessly the primary drink that springs to thoughts when other people bring to mind Eire. Alternatively, we’re similarly pleased with our wealthy whiskey heritage. Because it occurs, the phrase whiskey derives from the Gaelic time period uisce beatha – ‘water of lifestyles’ – and the Irish selection is alleged to predate its Scottish counterpart by way of some 90 years.
And now there’s a brand new Irish distillery making waves – no longer simply as a result of its lakeshore location. Brian Raethorne, the co-owner and business director of Lough Gill Distillery, tells me that their single-malt whiskey, Athrú, is playing large good fortune in nations like Germany and China. The title – pronounced Ah-roo – is the Gaelic phrase for trade and displays the tipple’s ever-changing nature.
Lough Gill Distillery.
Hidden inside of Hazlewood Demense at the Lough Gill Penninsula, the distillery utilises most of the sources discovered on its doorsteps, together with water from Benbulben mountain by way of an on-site neatly. The Italian corporate, Frilli, makes their copper pot stills.
Reverse the distillery is Hazlewood Space, a Palladian-style belongings designed by way of Richard Cassells within the 18th Century. The German architect is famous for designing Powerscourt Space, Leinster Space and the Rotunda Health facility. As a tribute to the valuables, Athrú’s branding makes use of the similar color blue at the space ceilings.
The home is lately within the strategy of an formidable recovery. Brian recognizes that it’s a “large enterprise” however is made up our minds to go back Hazelwood Space to its former glory.
“I’d love Lough Gill Distillery and the home to turn into a signature vacation spot for vacationers – we need to broaden excursions, museums, tastings, boat cruises and a bar,” he says. “It has large possible.”
Prior to I depart, I pattern a few of Athrú whiskey – after my first sip, I immediately perceive what the entire fuss is set!
By way of the ocean
Not able to withstand the trap of the wild Atlantic Ocean – and desperately wanting to stroll off that potent whiskey – I head to the captivating fishing village, Mullaghmore. En course, I move St Columba’s church in Drumcliffe, the place one among Eire’s maximum loved poets, Nobel-winner W.B. Yeats, is buried.
Stretching my legs alongside Mullaghmore’s golden seaside, it’s simple to know why the county’s panorama has impressed poets and writers similar to Yeats. Having labored up an urge for food, I consult with the award-winning Eithna’s By way of the Sea for lunch.
“We cater for informal eating with selfmade recipes, the usage of in the neighborhood sourced meals and sustainable produce,” proprietor Eithna O’Sullivan says of the 16-year-old eating place, famed for its contemporary seafood, shellfish and lobster dishes. Eithna additionally enjoys a name for her ingenious use of seaweed in each savory and candy dishes.
Eithna O’Sullivan from Eithna By way of The Sea.
She mentions that the eating place opens “with the season – when the fishing boats are heading out, and the primary of the native greens are peeping their heads above the soil.”
I consume one among their hottest choices – the lobster, brioche roll – so excellent, I nearly do like Oliver Twist and ask for extra!
Loosening my belt, I ultimately go back to Dublin, conscious that there are different top-notch institutions but to consult with in County Sligo, together with Coopershill Space – a surprising geographical region belongings, which has been within the O’Hara kinfolk because it was once in-built 1774. I imagine Simon O’Hara is the 7th technology to name Coopershill domestic, whilst his spouse, Christina, is an completed chef, born and raised in Strandhill.
To not concern – I’ll simply have to go back to the culinary capital of the Northwest for a 2nd serving to quickly.
* This newsletter was once at the beginning printed within the July / August 2021 factor of our sister newsletter, Eire of the Welcomes.
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